The W can be achingly difficult. The trails are almost never flat, the wind makes you stumble around like a punch drunk boxer, and the tent is never warm enough. By the end of it you've gone through all your chocolate and decent food, your feet are absolutely raw, and you seem to be simultaneously sweaty and cold almost all the time. Every once in a while you start to wonder why you ever left the warmth of the hostel bar, with all its friendly people and hot meals, to come out here and stomp around the wilderness for days on end. Then you look up from the trail to get your bearings and it all seems suddenly worthwhile.